Servicing Abu Garcia Multipliers

1. Reel before dismantling

1. Reel before dismantling

This applies to an Abu Garcia 6500 C3CT Elite, circa 2000. The process for Mag reels will differ slightly; I don’t have a Mag reel to do this with at the time of writing, but am looking to have one pretty soon. Please note, I’m not a qualified Abu service agent, and no responsibility is taken for any problems arising out of following these instructions. I will say that I have done this quite a few times without problems with my reels.

Here is the reel fully built up, before dismantling.

Undo the three captive screws on the drive side of the reel. Be careful not to let the screwdriver slip, which can leave a nasty scratch on the side plate. Ouch.

Pull the drive side plate away from the cage. The plate will come away complete with spindle, so pull it out in a straight line until the whole of the spindle is out.

At this point, if the reel is centrifugally braked, it’s worth removing any brake pads to prevent losing them. Put them on a clean, flat surface, preferably of a contrasting colour to the pads – they’re tiny, and very easy to lose.

2. Pull the side plate straight away from the cage until the spindle is free of the spool

2. Pull the side plate straight away from the cage until the spindle is free of the spool

Remove the spool from the cage of the frame. It might be worth holding the end of the line against the spool while doing this, and taping it down once it’s free, to prevent unravelling.

DRIVE SIDE

The gearing is located in the drive side plate – the right hand side of the reel as it’s mounted on a rod (for a right-hand side reel). There are various access ports in the drive side plate – the nozzle of a tube of Abu grease can be pushed through these, and a little grease squeezed on to the gears. Turning the handle slowly while doing this will spread the grease across the surface of the gears.

Wipe down the inside of the side plate and the surface of the cage which mates with the plate, to prevent contamination of the brake pads.

3. The 3 main components, separated. Cage (with non-drive side plate, spool, and drive side plate

3. The 3 main components, separated. Cage (with non-drive side plate, spool, and drive side plate

BEARINGS

The right hand side bearing is held in place with a small retaining circlip. These are incredibly fiddly to remove, and at least as easy to lose as the brake pads – they are very springy, so will fly off if you’re not careful. I slip the point of a hook under the circlip and lift it slightly, then carefully remove the rest of it with my fingers. The bearing is free to fall out at this point but may need some encouragement.

The left hand side bearing is held under the white cog which is part of the ratchet / line out alarm on this model. No retaining circlip – the bearing should fall out if you hold the spool vertically with the bearing cavity facing down.

5. The white cog conceals the non-drive side bearing. It is responsible for the sound emitted from the ratch when engaged

5. The white cog conceals the non-drive side bearing. It is responsible for the sound emitted from the ratch when engaged

I usually soak the bearings in lighter fluid to thoroughly clean them and remove old oil. The usual warnings regarding flammable substances apply here. Lighter fluid is also a solvent, so ensure that you’re working in a well ventilated area.

Once they’ve had a good soak, put them on a few sheets of kitchen towel to soak the lighter fuel up, turning them after a few minutes.

NON-DRIVE SIDE

The non-drive side of the reel doesn’t necessarily need to be removed from the cage, but is particularly susceptible to holding water after the reel has been washed – give it a good shake and use kitchen roll to soak up any drops. Be careful not to let the brass bullet fall out from the other side of the tension adjustment knob – it’s not held in place when the spool’s not there.

I put a light coating of Abu reel grease on the metallic components inside the plate – mostly components for the ratchet (spring, etc).

Once the lighter fuel has been soaked from the bearings, move them to a dry kitchen towel, and put a drop of oil in each side, allowing some time to soak in. I use Abu Rocket Oil, or the standard Abu oil – not sure if there’s a difference, but “Rocket Fuel” (not made by Abu) is popular and even 3-in-1 (I suspect that’s a bit thinner, so may result in a faster spinning spool).

I also put a drop of oil in the hole in the brass bullet – this is where the end of the spindle goes so will help prevent friction between the components.

6. Looking straight in to the reel from the drive side, with the drive side plate removed. Shows the brass "bullet" in to which the spindle goes, and the components of the ratchet.

6. Looking straight in to the reel from the drive side, with the drive side plate removed. Shows the brass "bullet" in to which the spindle goes, and the components of the ratchet.

Once the reel has been wiped down, it can then be reassembled, by reversing the instructions. Remember to be careful replacing the circlip, and the brake pads – these are really easy to lose.

I use a rag with a drop of oil on it to clean the outside of the side plates – this results in a great shine on the reels.

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One response

13 08 2009

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